Tiquicia

Isla Ometepe: Nicaragua's Touristic Treasure

Just got back from a visit to our neighbor to the North, Nicaragua.  One of the highlights of my trip was an overnight visit to Isla Ometepe.  Ometepe is an island located in Lake Nicaragua in the Department of Rivas.  The island was formed by two volcanoes, Concepción (1,610 meters, or 5,300 feet) and Maderas (1,394 meters, or 4,573 feet), that are joined by a narrow land bridge making it one continuous island.  The first thing that is remarkable is the Lake itself.  With an area of 8,274 square kilometers, Lake Nicaragua (or Lago Cocibolca) is the largest lake in Central America, and the 20th largest lake in the world.  The water is fresh and warm and the lake is great for swimming and fishing.  Of the two volcanoes, only Concepción is active.  It is very similar and almost identical in altitude to the Arenal Volcano here in Costa Rica (but far less active).  Going to Ometepe to me is like taking a step back in time.  Life on the island is very primitive compared to the hustle and bustle of the mainland. There is a good road that circumnavigates the island, but automobiles are very few.  On the road you are frequently interrupted by livestock crossing from one pasture to another. The island is inhabited by some 35,000 locals.  I find the people of Ometepe to be pleasant and very welcoming.  This was my third visit to the island, but the first time I actually stayed overnight.  I sayed at Hotel Villas Paraiso, a beautiful resort where my company Package Costa Rica sends customers. I highly recommend the place.  The room was really cool and the breeze off the lake exquisite.  Food on the island is great and the resturant at the resort was no exception.  Make sure to try "Guapote Entero", a whole fried fish that is popular on the island.  The resort is right on the lake shore and has a great beach for swimming.  There are many activities on the island.  You can take a trekking tour of either Concepción or Maderas.  Horseback riding along the shore of the lake is a great way to start the day.  We visited a really cool place on the road to the hotel called Ojos de Agua, which is a large natural spring that you can swim in.  I could go on and on, but suffice to say that Ometepe is a must-see for anyone who wants to visit Nicaragua.  For more information you can call us anytime at Package Costa Rica....1-866-424-6439.

Turrialtico Mountain Lodge and the Rio Pejibaye

I have written before about the amazingly beautiful area known as Turrialba (article appeared in the April 2007 issue of The Zine).  Recently I had another great experience in this natural wonderland.

The place is known as Turrialtico Mountain Lodge and it is located just a few minutes from downtown Turrialba.   I had stayed here once before, and this recent experience reminded me what a wonderful place this is to visit.  I thought I had to share my experience with readers of The Costa Rica Zine.  More specifically, Turrialtico is located on the slopes of the mountains that you must past if you are traveling from Turrialba to Limon, on the road to Siquirres.  It is a small and rustic lodge with incredible views of the valley below (See photo above).  The place is very affordable with rooms in the $60 per night range.  We arrived late and I was starved. Let me tell you the food in the restaurant was delicious, as was the breakfast the next morning. Another thing that really stood out was how comfortable the beds were.  The management of this little place really knows how to make you feel at home.  While eating breakfast we were watching Montezuma Oropendulas flying about.  These are beautiful tropical birds that have a very unique nest (see photo at left).  I would highly recommend Turrialtico as a place to stay in the area.  For those of you who want something a bit fancier, there is the nearby Casa Turire, which is 4-star and a bit more luxurious than the rustic Turrialtico.  I wrote about Casa Turire in the previous Turrialba article.  Both places are highly recommended.

Rio Pejibaye

One of the main attractions of this area (there are many, such as the Turrialba Volcano and Rio Pacuare) is the beautiful Rio Pejibaye.  Rio Pejibaye is less known for rafting than the nearby Reventazon and Pacuare rivers. Nevertheless it is a beautiful place to visit. The day we were there was during Holy Week and many locals were enjoying the cool clear waters of the river.  It is a great river for swimming (there are many deep spots with rocks that you can climb and jump off of you are daring enough, or just watch the locals do it) or you can just sit back and enjoy the natural beauty of the place. It is also a great place to go biking as well.  The next time I go there I am going to see how the river fares for tubing (I did see some locals enjoying this activity). I used to take my kids tubing in the Blue Ridge Mountains and boy did we love it.  It appeared as if the Pejibaye would be a great tubing river.  There is a neat little family-run restaurant near the river where you can catch your own Tilapia and they will cook them for you (Que Rica!).  And this place has the most sugar cane that I believe I have seen anywhere in Costa Rica.  The hills are blanketed with sugar cane fields that in some areas have big sections carved out as if some great giant came along with his scythe and cut it down.

I reiterate my recommendation of Turrialba as one of the “off the beaten path” and truly special places of Costa Rica.  You will not have to worry too much about tourist crowds around this place.  The natural beauty of the place is really something to behold.  Don’t miss it!

Pura Vida!

Bajos del Toro: A Well-Kept Secret that is Getting Out

From time to time I will be posting about areas of Costa Rica that are up and coming. Bajos del Toro is definitely one of those. The location is in the shadows of the Poas Volcano. To get there you take a right turn in front of the famous oxcart factory in Sarchi. At this point you pretty much leave civilization. You will drive through a protected zone of the the Rio Toro. The road is very narrow at times and the shoulder drops to oblivion. But the views are fantastic. You will climb the mountains to about 6,000 feet and then start descending to the little village of Toro Amarillo. Word is that the folks that brought us the Punta Islita resort in Guanacaste are building a five star hotel right there in this tiny little farming village. If they do anything as nice as Punta Islita, this place will be booming. This little valley is also called Valle de Truchas because there are many places where you can fish for trout from the Rio Toro and have someone cook them for you right there on the spot. One of these places is Nene's. Nene also has cabins where you can stay very cheaply and a nice little restaurant where they will cook you all the trout you can catch and/or eat. I am very excited about this area from a real estate standpoint. If the five star hotel goes in you are going to see prices in the area skyrocket. Right now you can buy land for anywhere from $5 to $10 per square meter, but once the hotel is in, land will likely go for as much as $20. It is also only about a 20 to 30 minuite drive from Sarchi, a bustling medium sized town (which by the way is the furniture capitol of Costa Rica) and only about 1.5 hours from San Jose. We are probably 2 years out from seeing this jump in prices, so now is a good time to get in. It is a charming and peaceful area full of beauty and ecological diversity.

Now to the most amazing attraction of the area. Costa Rica is known for its amazing rivers and waterfalls. But the most spectacular in my opinion is right here in the Bajos del Toro. It is known as Cataratas del Toro. My friends, Donais and Will have the only way you can gain entrance to the falls. They own about 100 hectares around the area of the falls. They have done some amazing work to make the falls accessible by building a walkway all the way down to the base. Once you descend down you will see something truly amazing. The water from the Rio Toro has a high acid content because it flows directly from the Poas Volcano. In this are called the cloud forest you will see many of the giant plants that we call Sombrillas, or umbrella plants. At the base of the falls you will notice that the Sombrillas look as if they have been torched. I mean charred as if by a flame. How can that be in an area that stays completely wet 365 days of the year? It is because of the spray from the waterfall contacting with the plants and the acid content burns them in this way. I have never seen anything like this anywhere else. Also, Donais and Will run a rappel tour right down the rock face beside the thundering waterfall. It is a 400 foot adrenaline pumping experience. They also have a gorgeous little restaurant where you can get the best arroz con pollo in the country, as well as other great dishes. They have three cozy little cabins in case you decide to stay for a while. Trails around their property will lead you through the cloud forest where you can see a great variety of birds and Donais has even reported seeing Pumas on her property. The place is truly amazing.

Very few know about this great location. Tourist buses don't go through here, although in my opinion it is the most beautiful and fastest route to La Fortuna and the Arenal Volcano. Also, once you hit the highway if you go the other way you will end up in Varra Blanca, which is also a great place full of beauty. Also close by is the Sarapiqui River, one of the best for rafting in the country. It only takes about one hour to get from Cataratas del Toro to Arenal and the roads are quite good. Although, once you hit the highway you will quickly notice that it is a major truck route, which can make for some hairy night time driving. I am quite sure that the word will get out about this place. Will and Donais are certainly trying to make sure of that. Please take a look at their web site, Cataratas del Toro. We are now taking all of our customers in route to the Arenal Volcano through this wonderful place and to date everyone has been extremely thankful for it.

For more information about how to get there or even to set up a tour to the area please visit our Travel Website or give us a call toll free at 1-866-424-6439. We also do Real Estate Exploration Tours and would be glad to show you opportunities in this or other areas.

On Top of the World, In Costa Rica

I want to share with you one of the most incredible experiences I have had in my lifetime. And the great thing is that I was fortunate enough to have it with my daughter who recently came to visit me in Costa Rica. Her name is Michelle and she is eighteen and just graduated and will be off to college very soon. This was our Chirripo adventure.

We set off from San Jose to Perez Zeledon on Wednesday. The plan was to spend the night at a hotel near the trail head so we could get an early start the next day. We arrived in San Gerardo after dark and it was raining. It took us about three hours from San Jose with a couple stops along the way. I had heard about a hotel called Pelicano and sure enough we found it. When we arrived at the gate it opened for us, but there was no one around. We saw a house with the lights on so I went and knocked. An elderly man came to the door and told me in Spanish that someone was on the way to check us in. Sure enough a young fellow named Omar showed up shortly thereafter who spoke good English. He asked if we were making the hike the next day and we told him yes. He checked us into our cabin asking when we would like to have breakfast the next day. We told him 5:30 and he said OK.

The next morning we arose very early and packed our gear. We went down for breakfast. The typical Costa Rican breakfast was excellent and Omar told us that our car would be safe at the hotel. He also offered to drive us to the trailhead and also check us in at the park office. The breakfast was excellent. Also the restaurant is a museum for the woodwork of Omar’s father (the elderly gentlemen who had greeted us the night before). We jumped into Omar’s truck and took off. It was about a two mile drive to the trailhead. By the way Omar also picked us up when we returned the next day and let us use the hotel to shower up before the drive home (now that is Costa Rican hospitality). The cabin cost around $40 for the night and was very comfortable.

The hike to the summit of Chirripo is about 20 kilometers (or a little over 12 miles). The trail is difficult and uphill most of the way. The trail itself is full of rocks and mud (especially during the rainy season). It is definitely an endurance test. You have to prepare for it. The first stop along the way was Llano Bonito (about 7 kilometers from the trailhead). There you can refill your canteens and take a little rest. You will probably meet other hikers and can share your pain. There are also toilets, but of the “outhouse” variety. For the hike you need to bring clothes that will keep you warm at Base Crestones (where you will spend the night). It can get very cold there and sometimes even below freezing (the months of Verano….January to April….are the coldest and often vegetation will be iced over in the early mornings). You need to bring food, water and toilet paper. And by all means wear good hiking shoes and bring rain gear.

After refreshing ourselves at Llano Bonito we set off for Base Crestones. The hike from Llano Bonito to Base Crestones is the most difficult with an unrelenting uphill climb. It is 7 kilometers from Llano to Base and then another 5 to 6 to the summit of Chirripo. The hike is amazing in that you pass through so many different tropical environments. At the beginning you are in some pretty dense jungle. After Llano Bonito the vegetation begins to change and you see trees and rocks with all varieties of musgos or mosses. One of the most interesting areas is called Barba del Viejo because the trees have this reddish brown hanging moss that resembles an old man’s bead. As you keep on heading up you finally get to the point where everything changes. It is if you have past from jungle to desert. Actually I have learned that this area is known as the Paramo.

We finally arrive at Base Crestones completely exhausted but feeling very triumphant to have made it this far. When we walked in there was the ranger sitting there with an elderly couple from Germany. They applauded us and that made us feel very welcome and good. Base Crestones would be our home for the night. It is a building with dorm rooms that have two bunk beds. There is a place to cook and many indoor bathrooms. It is pretty barren but comfortable and believe me after the 14 kilometer hike you will be glad you are there. It was too late in the day to try to make the summit that day and the rain started just as we arrived. So we just settled in for the night. It got pretty darn cold that night, but you can rent sleeping bags and blankets there so we were comfortable. I recommend renting the sleeping bags and blankets as opposed to bringing your own in order to keep your load light. The way you will normally want to do this to avoid rain and actually survive is to start the hike to Base Crestones early in the morning (which means you will have to spend the night before at a hotel in San Gerardo…and I highly recommend Pelicano, although there are other options). If you start early chances are you will make it to Base before the rain. Then you will spend one or two nights there and make the ascent to the summit early the next morning, again to avoid rain and see the spectacular views unobstructed by clouds.

Early the next morning (around 6:00 Am) we began the ascent to the summit of Chirripo (3820 meters, or about 12,500 feet). There are actually several peaks in the area that you can climb. After all the pain we endured to get to this point I can tell you that both of us felt that it had all been worth it. I do not have words to describe the beauty and majesty of the scenes we saw that morning. I came to Chirripo on somewhat of a spiritual mission and I sure felt closer to God being in this incredible place. It is a good idea to spend two nights at Base Crestones so you will have time to really explore the area and also not be so exhausted for the descent.

One of the most interesting things we saw were the lakes that actually give birth to two rivers. Rio Chirripo Atlantico and Rio Chirripo Pacifico both get their start from these lakes. After about an hour and a half of hiking we got our first glimpse of the summit of Chirripo. We had been told that the last 400 to 500 metes of the hike were straight up, but when we saw it I have to admit I was a bit intimidated but awestruck as well. Michelle flatly told me, Dad I am NOT going to go up there! I told her that we had come too far to “chicken-out” and after some motivating she finally got up the nerve to make the final ascent to the summit.

Finally we reached the summit and the view was breathtaking. You are indeed on top of the world in Costa Rica. They say on a really clear day that you can actually see both the Pacific and Atlantic oceans from up there. Looking out to the west I could get a glimpse of the Pacific coastline, but there were too many clouds looking to the east to actually see the ocean. Nevertheless I was completely amazed at what I saw.

For anyone who is adventurous and really wants to see the awesome natural beauty that Costa Rica possesses I highly recommend you give Chirripo a try. I caution that this hike is not for smokers (they don’t even allow it anywhere on the trail) and you need to be in pretty good shape to do it. But the gain is well worth the pain. The sense of accomplishment and the incredible beauty you will experience make every meter climbed well worth the effort. I will soon be starting a ministry known as Moment on the Mountain that will be for men who are seeking spiritual renewal and the hike up to the summit of Chirripo will be the climatic event of the week-long adventure. Stay tuned for future blogs and articles from The Costa Rica Zine about this opportunity.

Pura Vida!

Rappeling Down a 400 Foot Waterfall!

In Costa Rica adventures never cease! Most recently I had the opportunity of rappelling beside the raging waters of the 400 foot Catarata del Toro waterfall. I was playing tour guide that day to a family from Puerto Rico who were visiting by means of a Package Costa Rica arranged vacation. Actually, they had purchase the Pure Adrenaline package and on this day they were definitely in for some adrenaline pumping action. The tour is run by my good friends Donais and Will. The have the only means of gaining entrance to the waterfall and their property includes a restaurant (best "gallo pinto" in Costa Rica) and three cabins with numerous hiking trails and lookouts (see Catarata del Toro website). The tour is certified by ICT (Costa Rican Tourism Ministry) and is completely safe. Will started us out by providing instruction and they have a place where you can practice the technique before taking the tour. Safety is further supported by the fact that they use two ropes to apply "brakes" on your descent from below and above. If they see that you are in any kind of trouble they can immediately stop your descent.

The scariest part of the whole deal is taking that initial step off the platform. It will definitely get your adrenaline pumping. However, once you take that initial step and you find yourself hanging just to the side of the thunderous waterfall, it is an exhilarating experience. It is best to take your time on the way down. The guides can control your descent as well, but if you signal to them they will give you more rope and allow you to descend more rapidly. The normal time to get to the bottom is about 15 minutes. You can also stop (you have to signal to them to brake you) and take a photo. However, don't look down if you are afraid of heights! The family I was with that day included two young boys, both of whom had nerves of steel with no fear whatsoever. I am afraid that the dad was a little scared of the whole idea when he saw his youngest teetering on the edge of the platform. Once we were all safely at the bottom we felt very good about the whole experience. I actually kind of wanted to go again. Like the canopy, once you have done it, the fear melts away and you are ready to repeat the experience maybe this time with less "sweaty palms" and more courage to really take in the experience (as opposed to just get in over with!).

Catarata del Toro is in my opinion one of the most beautiful locations in the country. Just ask Mel Gibson. Our new famous Costa Rica resident made a surprise visit one day. After the rappel, enjoy a delicious lunch at the restaurant and a cold Imperial.

Pura Vida

Finally Corcovado!

After being in Costa Rica for the last seven years I finally had the experience of going to the wonderful area known as the Osa Peninsula, specifically Corcovado National Park. I had heard such amazing things about this place. Located along the Pacific Coast of the famed Osa Peninsula, the Corcovado National Park has been dubbed by National Geographic as “the most biologically diverse location on earth.” From my experience, I would not want to argue the point……..


Getting There

There are two basic ways to get to Corcovado, either by car or by plane. I chose car, probably because I like to do things the hard way. If you are driving from San Jose, I suggest you spend one night in Dominical to break the trip up a bit. It is about four hours from San Jose to Dominical (either by way of Quepos or by way of San Isidro General). We did spend a night in Dominical. The next day the sun was shining and we set off for adventure. The road all the way from Dominical to Palmer Sur is one of the best in the country, so you can make pretty good time. From there things get a bit more interesting. Your final destination will be Puerto Jiminez, a little town on the Golfo Dulce. By the way make sure to stop at one of the scenic points overlooking the Golfo Dulce, because it is truly magnifcent. You will have to pass over some pretty rough roads to get to Puerto Jiminez. Just take your time and enjoy the scenery (maybe that will take your attention away from your sore @#$). You can also choose to take a direct flight from San Jose to Puerto Jiminez. The flight on Sansa runs about $100 (with taxes and fees included). Remember, however, there is a pretty stringent weight requirement and you will pay dearly if you have too much luggage or equipment.

Puerto Jiminez

Puerto Jiminez is the most happening place in the area. There are restaurants, some shops, a disco, internet cafes, a bank (with cash machine) and many great places to stay (I address accommodations below). The place is on the water and has a very nice vibe to it. The people down here are very inviting and I did notice that the women are quite pretty (hey, I can notice things like that. I’m not married!). While there we took a boat across the gulf to Pavones. The boat ride took about an hour and costs us $200. The drive would have taken us 6 hours. Pavones is famous for surfers and boasts the longest left breaking wave in the world. The day we went there was not much there, but it can get quite big. Anyway, the boat ride over was stunning and we saw some beautiful coastline and several schools of dolphins.

Places to Stay

There are many hotels that range from hostels to really nice resorts. Two that stand out are Yellow Coco and Lapas Rios. Yellow Coco is located on the beach about 15 minutes from Puerto Jiminez. It boasts a beach house that sleeps nine as well as two bungalows that each sleep 3 to 4 persons. Yellow Coco does not have a restaurant or a pool. Meals will be on your own, i.e., you can bring groceries in to cook (each accommodation has a fully equipped kitchen) or go to any of the many local restaurants (the ones we tried were excellent, by the way). Lapas Rios is a little farther away and about half way to the entrance of the Corcovado Park. It is about a 45 minute drive from central Puerto Jiminez. The Lapas Rios resort is beautiful beyond description. The resort has won several awards for sustainable tourism. They actually run programs out of the resort to teach rain forest conservation. The rates run about $295 double and include the round trip transportation from Puero Jiminez and all meals and non-alcoholic drinks. I have heard that the food at Lapas Rios is out of this world delicious. The resort also offers several packages that include a variety of tours.

Corcovado National Park

The highlight of any visit to the Osa Penninsula is Corcovado National Park. It is one of the most biologically intense locations on earth and houses an astonishing variety of plants, insects, birds and large mammals. It is one of the only places in Costa Rica where you can still find Jaguars (although experts estimate there are only about 100 left in the park) and it is the only place where you can find all four species of monkeys native to Costa Rica (which are the spider, squirrel, howler and white face). On my trip I did not get to see the elusive big cat, but did see a Danta (Tapir) and almost ran over a Sloth crossing the dirt road. We actually drove into the park and had to cross many rivers (one of which was deep enough that the water covered the hood of the SUV). One of the most amazing sights I saw was a tree full of Scarlet Macaws.

You Need to Go There

Over the last four years we have brought about 1,000 tourists to Costa Rica. However, only a few have experienced this magical place called Corcovado and the Osa Peninsula. Places like Arenal and Manuel Antonio have put Costa Rica on the world tourism map. Yet people are missing out on places that are more remote like Corcovado. We currently have a great package that even includes a flight into the Serena Station deep in the park with a naturalist tour guide. This is called our Eco-Tourism package and I would highly encourage you to consider it.

Refugio Caño Negro

I recently had the opportunity to do a boat tour of the Refugio Caño Negro located not far from the Nicaraguan border in Los Chiles. My agency, Package Costa Rica, has sent many customers on this tour, but I had never before experienced it myself. I can attest that if you are interested in Costa Rican Naturaleza this is one of the best places to visit in the country.

Getting There

The best way to do the tour is from La Fortuna with a package that includes the transportations. There are several companies that run such a tour. One of the best is Canoa Adventures, whose office is in La Fortuna. Canoe owns a nice little facility right on the banks of the Rio Frio about 20 minutes downriver from the tiny village of Caño Negro. The facility has a bar and restaurant and clean bathrooms and it is where they put the canoes in for the tour down the river.

Getting to this place yourself by car can be quite an adventure. You head due north from La Fortuna towards the Nicaraguan border. Near the town of Los Chiles you hang a left on a dirt roan that takes you to your final destination. The road is rocky, but not too bad. At least when I went it wasn’t too bad, but this was during the dry season too. You follow the road for about 45 minutes before you arrive at Caño Negro. There is a large bar by the docs and there you will find any number of guides that will take you on a covered boat tour for about $20 to $30 for a couple hours.

What you Can See

The wildlife in this area is truly spectacular, especially the birds. Caño Negro is one of the few places where, if you are lucky, you can catch a glimpse of the exotic Jabiru Stork, the tallest flying bird found in Central and South America. On our trip we saw tons of wood storks (but unfortunately not the rare Jabiru), cormorants and other varieties of birds, sloths, howler monkeys, and many caimans. The river is teeming with life at almost every turn. Other birds that can be found in the refuge include the glossy Ibis, black-necked stilt, neotropical cormorants, American anhinga, northern jacana, American widgeon, wood stork, white Ibis, black-bellied tree duck, cattle egret, northern shoveler, snail kite, green backed heron, Nicaraguan grackle, roseate spoonbill, and blue-winged teal. Also found in the park are spider, capuchin and howler monkeys, spectacled caimans, crocodiles, jaguars, cougars, tayras, ocelots, tapirs, white-tailed deer, jesus-christ lizards, black river turtles, and enormous orange iguanas.

Near Death Experience

While you can swim in the river at certain locations, with the caimans and crocodiles lurking about, do you really want to? For me I had no choice. My so-called “good-friend” and traveling companion (Yuri) pushed me into the river during a vulnerable moment. We had actually stocked a cooler-full of Nicaraguan beer back at the dock. Yuri is from Nicaragua and could not miss the opportunity. The place is so close to the border that the bar had one of the best (and very potent) Nicaraguan varieties readily available. Needless to say, I was a little wobbly on my feet on the boat and Yuri seized the opportunity to try to do me in once and for all. Fortunately (or not so fortunately for Yuri), I am still alive to tell the story.

If you are staying in the La Fortuna area, I would highly recommend a visit to Refugio Caño Negro. We can set you up with a tour. Just give us a call toll-free (from the U.S. or Canada) at 1-866-424-6439. Visit our travel web site for a full list of our packages and other useful information about Costa Rica.